Máncora has mixed reviews. Some people will tell you to skip it altogether, while some, including Vogue, surprisingly enough, will hype it as the hottest new resort town. Here’s our verdict, as well as what to do if you find yourself in this glitzed-up fishing town.

Quick and Dirty

In a sentence?

Small coastal town that feels grungy at times, but is increasingly popular for its beach front, sometimes surfable waves, and convenient location.

Worth it?

Yes, if you’re in the area. We would not suggest making a special trip.

How long?

One week, if you want to relax at one of the nicer hostels in the area or even do a workaway. One day if you just want to check things out and catch some waves.

Our favorite?

The food.

Our least favorite?

Its touristy dinginess.

Recommended Daily Budget?

200 soles per pair.

Location?

Northern Peru. Very convenient coming to/from the Ecuador border via bus.

Máncora

What to Do

7:00 AM Sleep-walk to a hostel (40 - 70 soles per pair)

You’ll likely arrive on an overnight bus, either from a city to the south like Trujillo or the Ecuadorian border to the north. Either way, you’ll be tired. We were not particularly thrilled with our room, but heard good things about Misfits hostel (25 sol dorm), which is right on the beach outside of town, and Casa Naranja (65 sol double), which is in a popular grouping of hostels on the other side of town. Both of these should be booked in advance if you have your heart set, but there are plenty of others if you would rather just show up. We bargained hard and got a rather dismal double in the town for 40 soles a night.

8:00 AM Wake yourself up with some sustenance (5 soles per pair)

Instead of wasting your money on an overpriced tourist breakfast, make your way to one of the panaderias in town (5 rolls for 1 sol) and grab some fruit from a stall on the street (6 mini bananas for 1 sol). Then take your bounty to the beach.

Pro tip: if you need purified water, there’s a spot that will fill your 2L bottle for 2 soles instead of the 8 soles you’ll pay at the store. Walk north out of town - it’s on the right side of the main drag.

9:00 AM Go for a walk (0 soles per pair)

A highly recommended diversion is to walk south along the water. You’ll pass the dock and some lovely (and surely quite pricey) resorts along your way, as well as lounging local couples. We tried walking north, too, but were warned by a guard that it wasn’t safe much past Misfits.

11:00 AM Surf’s up (0 - 60 soles per pair)

Máncora doesn’t always have waves, but sometimes there’s consistent enough beach break to entertain beginners like us for a few hours (20 - 30 soles per board for the day). If you want more, we’ve heard good things about some towns to the south of Máncora. Or, if you don’t like surfing, playing in the waves with the many vacationing Peruvian children can also be fun.

3:00 PM Soak up the ceviche (15 - 75 soles per pair)

We highly recommend wandering a bit outside of town to Cevicheria Jasusi (35 soles for a huge plate). You can walk, or take a tuk tuk (3 soles) if you feel a bit sketched out, as some people warned us about the neighborhood. Cheap, cheap lunch menus abound in town (8 soles per menu), and you might even get a ceviche along with one, but we think Jasusi is definitely worth it.

5:00 PM Lounge in the sunset (0 - 25 soles per pair)

We opted for the do-it-yourself route (7-8 soles for a big bottle of beer), which consisted of going to a convenience store and bargaining about whether or not we’d get the bottle return back (1 sol). Another option is renting a chair on the beach. Our friends got two chairs for the day, along with two big beers (25 soles for the package). Regardless, the sunset is totally worth it, whether you like beer or not.

9:00 Splurge for dinner (30 soles - 90 soles per pair)

Let’s preface this: La Sirena d'Juan was the best meal we had in Peru, and one of our only splurges (35 soles per main). Their osso buco, a lovely stewed meat, was amazing. You can go for lunch to cut the price or simply share an entree to taste what all the fuss is about. We went for (almost) the whole shebang, with a shared appetizer and two mains. If you just can’t swing it, there are decent set menus in town (15 soles per menu).

11:00 Too sleepy to party or... (0 - 70 soles per pair)

It might be controversial, but if you decide not to buy a hostel in the morning (and can figure out what to do with your bags), it’s totally legitimate to leave the same night. Máncora is the perfect distance to head overnight to Ecuador, Trujillo, or even Lima (40 soles for a decent bus). Prices vary a bit depending on where you’re going and what kind of bus you want. Our biggest recommendation is to skip the travel agencies with their up-charged tickets and keep walking further north in town to the actual bus companies. If you decide to stay, you’ll have plenty of options to party (10 soles for a small beer). On a budget, though, I’d skip the scene in Máncora like we did for a better night out in Lima or Cusco.