The Best Bothies of the Cape Wrath Trail

Kearvaig bothy through the beach grass

There's a fair amount of controversy surrounding the bothy hype. In fact, there's a rather popular book that's making a whole lot of people angry. We get more into that here (it's also a good place to start if you're not sure what a bothy actually is). 

But, we figure this list is pretty harmless, because the vast majority of these bothies are impossible to find if you're not walking the Cape Wrath Trail. So, if you're planning to make the trek, here's what you have to look forward to. And if not, you can simply salivate over all the wonderful, wild, completely free places to rest your head in Scotland.

Most of these bothies are marked on the maps of the Cape Wrath Trail, if you decide to buy one. We were using a (digital) compass and the app maps.me which worked completely fine, but not all the huts were listed. More details about all of them can be found at the absolutely epic Walk Highlands or the Mountain Bothy Association's site.

Again: they are all free, unlocked, and open. Please enjoy and respect the bothy code if you go!


 

6. Sourlies

The beach grass next to Sourlies bothy

Barely visible before you're nearly on top of it, Sourlies is a welcome refuge next to the sea. It looks like it's rising out of the earth, and you have to light the plentiful candles inside to make out the gnarled antlers hanging above the mantle. If you can get the rickety chimney to do it's job, you can light a fire and sit listening to the crackling wood for hours. If not, instead of letting it smoke you out like we did, we'd suggest snuggling up on it's large sleeping platform or bunk bed and catching an early night. A bit grimy, but gets the job done.
 
*Note the bridge over the nearby river is out. We had absolutely no trouble crossing, but the water level was low. Check the conditions before you go, and don't be stupid.

 

Location: between Barrisdale and A'Chuil

 

5. Schoolhouse

Small grey schoolhouse bothy next to the gravel fire road

The Schoolhouse bothy is by far the cutest place we stayed in Scotland. The only reason it doesn't rank higher is because it doesn't have a fireplace. So can it reallyyy be called a bothy?? Technicalities aside, it will shelter you from the wind and rain and you can read about it's recent renovation and past. Pretty, clean, and airy, the small building has two roomy sides with enough sleeping platforms for at least six people, a tiny private room, and plenty more floor space.

 

Location: between Oykel Bridge and Inverlael

 

4. Glencoul

The view of mountains around the lake Glencoul

This bothy can be found at the head of the loch of the same name. It's located directly next to other estate buildings, so it makes you feel like you're being welcomed as a guest. There are two rooms with wide sections to sleep. It could probably fit around 8 very easily, and more could squeeze. The fireplace warms it nicely, but there isn't always wood. We collected some of our own small branches from bushes that had died on the hill above:) The bothy at Glen Dubh is also close by. Although it is well taken care of, it's a bit small and could be tight for a large group. Take your pick.

 

Location: between Kylestrome and Inchnadamph

 
3. Maol Bhuidhe

The small white outline of Maol Bhuide against the bog

Fun fact: this bothy is owned by the crown prince of Dubai.

What? I know. We had an incredible experience at Maol Bhuidhe, because we ran into the lovely caretaker there. A young guy, he just took over the place (as a volunteer, bless his heart) and is doing some incredible things to it. He also taught us a lot of what we know about bothies. Expect big changes in the near future, but when we were there, it already had one of the best fire rooms we saw on the entire trip, with tons of candles and even a cast iron pot and grate to cook with. The upstairs is spacious and clean and there's plenty of room to camp outside if need be.

There's another bothy nearby, but we'd choose this one in a heart beat.

 

Location: between Craig and Morvich

 

2. Kearvaig

Stefan standing next to Kearvaid bothy and the blue sea

If you've heard of any bothy on this list, we'd bet our wet boggy socks it's Kearvig. Multiple people told us to go, somehow we still didn't really understand what it was until we stumbled on it.

What it is is absolutely beautiful, by far in the best location of all the bothies. It has more rooms than we can remember, and would sleep tons of people, but when we were there, we were all alone. It's in a grassy meadow above a beach, with crumbling ruins and a bubbling river beside it. Absolutely idyllic. Some unlucky gal died there somewhat recently, so try not to think about that as you wonder if you should ever leave. Stef's initial reaction: let's just stay here the rest of the summer.

Plus, you'll only find it if you skip the Durness bus and walk the section of road through military territory. You will be rewarded - as long as you check the firing conditions, we doubt you'll get blown up. This isn't America any more, Dorothy. 

 

Location: between Durness and Cape Wrath 

 

1. Shenavall 

The sign in the window of Shenavall Bothy

Here it is: our absolute favorite bothy. And actually one of the few that can be visited by a relatively easy, one night trip. Surprisingly, that didn't ruin it. We got to Shenavall after the one brutal day of rain we had on the entire trek (fucking shocking, we know).

The fire was raging, and we met a wonderful variety of locals and trekkers and a combination of the two. It's huge and well appointed, with plenty of wood. If you're lucky, you might even find some food in the cupboards. We did, with only one or two mouse nibbles!

There are plenty of other bothies to explore on the Cape Wrath Trail, and nearly endless possibilities in Scotland as a whole. Go forth, wisely, and let us know what you find! 
 


Have your own favorite wilderness cabins? Share your thoughts below. They're some of our favorite places in the entire world.


 

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