Bothies are the Free Scottish Wilderness Huts of our Dreams

Shenavall Bothy in front of mountains, bog, and a pink sky

"To maintain simple shelters in remote country for the use & benefit of all who love wild & lonely places."

- The Mountain Bothy Association

 

We didn't know about bothies when we arrived in Scotland. In fact, the story unraveled slowly. We heard whisperings of wilderness cabins along the trail we were hiking (The Cape Wrath Trail, if you're interested). When we showed up to the first one, we thought it must be some lucky bastard's private house. It wasn't. It was Kearvaig, one of the most famous bothies in all of Scotland. And it was spectacular.

Here's everything we've learned about the Scottish bothies: what they are, how to use them, and why they mean that Scotland should be your next budget hiking destination.


 

So what exactly is a bothy? 

A bothy is a "simple," primitive structure left open to the public. They're wilderness huts, but unlike the shitty ones in the Alps, these ones are very not fancy and very free. 

But that can mean a whole lotta things. Most are small stone houses on large estates. we also stayed in a renovated school house and heard stories of the Tea House, which is barely big enough to lie down in.

At minimum, you can always expect a safe, dry place to sleep. Most have sleeping platforms, which may or may not fill up if it's busy. Always bring a sleeping mat, sleeping bag, and stove. Remember you have just as much right to use a bothy as anyone else, if it isn't full. There's also most often room to camp nearby.

A fireplace is the norm, but not all bothies have wood. And for fuck's sake don't burn down the place. Also they are not places to leave trash. They're often remote and unserviced. If you're lucky, though, someone might have left some food or booze for you to find. Watch out for nefarious critters that nibble on your biscuits.

 

Who takes care of the huts?

Ah, the Mountain Bothy Association, a group of angels we all aspire to be one day. From what we heard, it basically consists of two main parts: a bunch or old white men that died and left a massive amount of money and a group of awesome volunteers that maintain the buildings. You can learn more about the organization here. If you are old and rich, you can also donate to the project. 

The MBA is generally the liaison to the wealthy estate moguls that own these bothies. Because of some weird land distribution in Scotland, there are great swaths of land with only a few owners. So much of it just sits with no real purpose. That's great for hikers and nature, but it means that many of the old estate buildings don't have much hope. The MBA's volunteers are absolutely crucial to keep these places going. Otherwise, they would quickly fall into disrepair.

There's a book at each bothy to sign. If you can't leave money (which you're not at all expected to do - we didn't), drop a note and say thanks.

 

What is the Bothy Code?

Basically, respect the places. Don't leave trash. Don't burn them down. Don't shit without digging a cat hole an adequate distance from the house and any water. Close them when you leave. Be kind to other guests. Etc.

Again, you can read more about the code at the MBA's site, here. If you're new to spending time in the back country, leave no trace principles are another good thing to familiarize yourself with.

 

What's the deal with Bothy commercialization?

Why, we thought you'd never ask!

Bothies are becoming more and more popular, largely thanks to a rather infamous book floating around (Google "bothy book" and you'll probably find it). And some "bothies" are - gasp - beginning to charge. But goddamn is it making people angry.

Let us explain our thoughts:

We don't know the whole story, but there is definitely lots of grumbling about bothy tourism. The bothies are run by a grassroots organization that is extraordinarily generous by its nature. Any attempt to commercialize these wild domains is understandably offensive to some people. Especially when outsiders try to make money off them.

If you want information about the bothies, go to the website. It's everything you'll need and if there's anything else to know... Well, you should probably figure that out by yourself or reach out to the MBA.

 

Why do bothies mean that Scotland should be my next budget backpacking destination?

Bothies are a godsend for the budget backpacker. They add a completely new dimension to a trek, one where you have some chance of respite from Scotland's notoriously bad weather. Where you can meet other travelers, and locals too. A place where you can rest your head after a few too many nights in a flimsy plastic triangular prism.

They really make a trip to Scotland something completely unique. It's possible to do a bothy trip, or just to incorporate them into your other  adventures. Either way, you won't regret spending a night inside by the crackling fire.

 

Be kind to the bothies and say hello from us.

 

We'd love to hear your own experiences with bothies or any other wilderness huts around the world. Send us a message or comment below.


 

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